Sloper

This was not what I intended to do this weekend.

I looked over the Vogue ‘very easy’ dress and it looks ridiculously hard.  I posted a couple questions to Pattern Review but ultimately most of the decisions/queries had to be made here at home.  Mainly, what cup size do I sew, and, if I make a 14 to fit my shoulders, will it fit anywhere else? This pattern doesn’t even HAVE shoulders.

I had read Fit for Real People (“FFRP”) a while ago and made some notes.  Incredibly, they recommended a pattern size 14 for my measurements (36.5 high bust, 39 full bust, 31.5 waist, 38.5 hips – all inches).  So last year I bought all the makings of a sloper – the McCalls Palmer/Pletsch (FFRP) fit pattern, green check gingham, elastic, etc. Then I realized how hard it was and put it in a drawer and slinked away.

That said, facing the Vogue project, it seemed wise to get some answers beforehand. Thus, the sloper bodice project commenced.  This was the most unsatisfying (as I worked) but satisfying (at the very very end) project ever.  Damn, what a pain in the *ass* this project was, I suspect mostly due to my lack of sewing skills.

I spent Saturday morning tissue fitting the C, D and DD provided pieces.  Ultimately I went with C.  It was the size they recommended for my measurements (although I wear a D bra typically) and even though it did not fit perfectly, I thought it was a better place to start out.  Thankfully with alterations it actually worked great.  I wish I had as-I-fitted photos to show you but – did I mention how much I HATED this project?  I was simply too grumpy and discouraged to grab the camera other than the above shot.

That said, here is what I ended up with and I have to say it fits pretty great!

Let’s take a moment and be impressed by the back photo.  I’m home alone this weekend and that involved a wall mirror, a handmirror and some contortion.  Yes, it’s a bit out of focus but credit where credit is due, okay?  I suspect I can take in the sides a little – looking at the front shot.  But taking in is the least of my problems.  Easy-peasy.

So, all in all, this was a good project.  I will always have to make a C cup adjustment to patterns (the ‘very easy’ (snort) Vogue dress comes with cup sized pieces thankfully), lower the side dart and adjust the waist darts, and, as it turns out, also a bodice length adjustment of a half inch (did not expect to have to do this but there you go) and also cut at least a size bigger from the underarm to waist.  This covers my belly issues and also gives me enough room in my armpit.  By adding an inch to each side the whole thing just hangs better and it closes up nicely at center front.

Still shocked I got all this out of – to me – a tiny size pattern with a small cup size.  But there you go!

Ultimately I am stopping there with the sloper pattern.  I suspect I’ll need to make a narrow shoulder adjustment and a neckline adjustment but, since I’m not making a business shirt anytime soon and I hated this and was completely annoyed all weekend, I’ll wait to figure those out later.

Off to clean up my sewing space and go outside before I turn into a vampire.

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