Last night we finished our introduction to seam finishes. We did – quickly – French seams, Flat Fell seams, and Hong Kong seams. Photos of all five seams:
Plain seam from the outside after the uber-Ironing. She’s only concerned with the cleanness of the seam – please ignore wrinkles that came in from my bag!
Tailored seam:French seam. I find this seam fascinating. Apparently it is used on easy to fray and see-thru fabrics – chiffon, organza, etc. You actually do the plain seam, wrong sides together so it ends up on the right side, then cut down the seam allowances to 1/4″ and then fold the fabric book-style around the cut seam allowances and sew around them so the original seam is encased and on the wrong side. It feels like magic when it ends up right. Very cool. The idea is that if the seam shows thru, you just see something finished. Flat Fell seam. This is used for denim often – see, the inseam of your jeans. Similar to French in that you are hiding the ends by folding the seam allowances (this time on the wrong side of fabric; only on French are you ever on the right side) and then doing a SUPER close edge stitch to secure. You can see I had a few problems there on the edge stitching. I’m not quite close enough to the edge at parts and there are some redos. I showed the teacher – she said sort of did an eye roll saying “it’s your first one!” so I’m letting this one go:Hong Kong. The most ‘couture’ of seam finishes. This seam is made by sewing additional bias-cut fabric (in couture, typically organza so you are not adding bulk) to each edge of the original plain seam allowance. You then wrap the organza around, baste it on and then, stitch in the ditch around the rolled part to encase. Right side looks better because I redid sections of it. The left is a full run and you can see I was having problems particularly at the top. She only grades one side. We’ll see:Close up – I really need to get my stitch length more even.One more shot of HK. Hmm, perhaps I SHOULD redo – ACK! We’ll see if I have time. That said, I know over time I’ll improve at this. Our basting is also being graded but on a final product, that would be removed.
So there you go – five couture seam finishes. As a quilter, I was thinking Hong Kong would not be so tough – stitch in a ditch? Been there, done that. But the combination of ‘it’s been a while’ plus the Juki was actually pretty hard. I feel my work is merely adequate but hopefully good enough to pass muster as I likely do not have time to redo it (it is due/we turn it in at the start of class Thursday). I’m planning a little practice session on my Brother N450 this weekend of both stitch in the ditch and edge stitch as that’s the machine I’ll ultimately be working with so I’d like to get this right. I’m also planning to run samples of each on the Juki pre-class the next few sessions to improve my skill in class since at times we’ll be turning things in before we leave. Would be nice to feel confident there as well.
So that’s seaming. On Thursday, we begin hems and then sometime next week we start cutting out our skirts. Can’t wait!