We spent last Thursday setting up the sleeves to be set into the shirt. I have to say the trickiest bit was the gusset near the cuff. Readers, never EVER take that little area for granted in your purchased clothing. What a total pain in the ass it is to set in.Mine is not the best. The teacher told me to leave it – that this type of thing takes many many tries to get right and that it was good enough for a first effort. The rolled-around piece is a bias piece so there are stretching issues and also, you are sewing down to a point which can’t be at all off left or right so it is tricky. Here’s a photo of the inside:
Looks like a shirt, right? I love the fabric but unfortunately this will be too small for me to wear. I may pawn it off to a tiny friend although I’m told we are to keep it for our ‘admittance to the program’ – for when we all apply to school to become Fashion Designers. 🙂
The rest of the night we spent finishing up the inside.
We hand sewed down the color ‘invisibly’. Yes, you can see my stitches but I am using contrast thread – also this is on the inside of the garment so I’m not too worried about it. We also sewed by hand the front facings to the yoke (2nd photo). Tricky but I made it work.
There is one area I had a blip in the collar. I had cut it down in the wrong spot leaving a hole. It looks – miraculously – fine from the outside since I had to sew it down by hand on the OUTSIDE but the inside…. meh but okay enough. This is a very busy fabric so I think I can get away with it but I suspect I’ll not get an A on this project because of it. Still, I will likely not make that mistake again. I think I just didn’t understand what was going on in that insert. Now I know.
Outside 1st photo. Inside 2nd.
A few last images of inside details:
Inside of the cuff – also hand sewn b/c at FIT you do couture (you can also see a french seam back there). And the tailored edge on the inside front facing. Today I’m off to Jonathan Embroidery for professional buttonhole insertion and button purchase. Personal buttonhole insertion not required by professor but ‘you can do it if you want – doesn’t change your grade either way’. 2 days out from vacation I am totally treating myself to the pro insertion. And then, that’s it! Tomorrow we slap a hem on this sucker and then I am done – successfully completing my first class at FIT. Pretty shocked I made garments that look this amazing. Go me!